The Isle of Ulva and the "Father of Australia"

This post is inspired by a comment about the connection between Lachlan Macquarie and the Isles of Ulva and Mull in the Hebrides provided by one of our Australian Guests who recently cruised with us.

“We did not know that our famous New South Wales Governor Lachlan Macquarie was born on Ulva, until we arrived near Ulva. We did not find out that he and his family are buried on Mull, until reading this after we got home. Governor Macquarie is a very famous part of our history and there are lots of place names around New South Wales that are named after him. We also have a lovely waterfront point in our Sydney Botanic Gardens named Mrs Macquarie's Chair because she apparently sat there quite often to relax and watch the activity on the harbour. Coincidentally, through my work I am managing two of our premium Sydney buildings, one of which is named Governor Macquarie Tower. It is built on the site of the original government house that Macquarie would have occupied. I'm sure lots of Aussie guests would love to visit Macquarie's birthplace and perhaps his grave. You may of course know all of this history already so forgive us if we are repeating stuff you already use in your guest commentary.”

Here at The Majestic Line, we have to hold our hands up and say that although we knew about the link between the Isles of Ulva and Mull and Lachlan Macquarie we hadn’t thought to highlight this to our Australian guests. The achievements  and character of Lachlan Macquarie were immense; he was the first Governor of New South Wales and known as the “Father of Australia”, no less.  Ulva is a tiny, privately owned idyllic island lying just off the coast of Mull in the Inner Hebrides. The connection between these Isles and Lachlan Macquarie is an inspirational and poignant story.

Born in 1762 on the Isle of Ulva, Lachlan Macquarie left his Hebrides home as a young lad: he enroled in the American War of Independence aged 15.  Lachlan was descended from the Scottish Highland family clan MacQuarrie which possessed Ulva, Staffa, and a region of the Isle of Mull for over one thousand years, and his forebears were buried on Iona. His impressive military career lasted over 30 years and took him to many corners of the globe.  But his early life was tinged with tragedy; the death of his first wife of tuberculosis after only three years of marriage left him depressed and he returned to Mull.  There he met Elizabeth Campbell, who in 1807 became his second wife. Macquarie was soon after offered the position of Governor of New South Wales by the British Crown and he went back to Australia in 1809.

His legacy is inspirational and is credited for shaping modern Australia.  As Governor he set about transforming a society that was starving, with no proper infrastructure or community values. Critically he identified the importance of education in building a nation. He created an environment in which commerce and manufacturing could flourish introducing coinage and establishing the colony’s first bank “The Bank of New South Wales” in 1817.  One of his main priorities was public health, very aware of the link between poverty, disadvantage, sickness and crime.  Many believe that it was Macquarie’s example of tolerance and humanity that set the spirit of egalitarianism and sense of fair play that is considered a defining characteristic of the Australian people today.

Lachlan Macquarie retired as Governor in 1822 and died in London 1824 while defending himself against  Commissioner J.T Bigge's damning report on his administration which Bigge felt was too liberal. But Macquarie’s reputation continued to grow after his death and today he is regarded by many as the most enlightened and progressive of the early Governors who sought to establish Australia as a country, rather than as a prison camp

Macquarie was buried with his wife and son on the Isle of Mull in a remote mausoleum which is maintained by the National Trust of Australia and is inscribed "The Father of Australia". Macquarie formally adopted the name Australia for the continent, the name earlier proposed by the first circumnavigator of Australia, Matthew Flinders. As well as the many geographical features named after him in his lifetime, he is commemorated by Macquarie University in Sydney.  More information on the Ulva link can be found here> and click here for information on the Macquarie Mausoleum on Mull.

Guest bloggers: Australians John and Carole Dunphy on their cruise with The Majestic Line

Scotland’s Majestic Line – ‘Around Mull: Inlets and Islands’

Glen Massan anchored in Tobermory Harbour, Isle of Mull  

Image: John Dunphy

Last month, Sydneysiders John Dunphy and wife Carole decided to spend some quiet time on their own during a family visit to Scotland, and booked a six night cruise on Glen Massan.

“Our chosen cruise,“Around Mull: Inlets and Islands”, was a circumnavigation of Mull and its surrounding smaller islands. The prelude to our cruise was a wonderful three hour train trip from Glasgow to Oban on the famous West Highland Train Line, and soon after leaving the suburbs of Glasgow we were enjoying the beautiful scenery of Loch Lomond and then into the highlands, to the lovely port town of Oban, to join our cruise.

http://www.travelmonitor.com.au/review-scotland-majestic-line-cruise-glen-ma

 

Day 1

Passengers met at a local waterfront restaurant to be briefed, and introduced to the crew and our fellow passengers. Very soon we were on board Glen Massan, which was moored in Oban Bay. The crew gave us a safety briefing before showing us to our double, en-suite cabin, one of six on board. There was a comfortable double bed, cosy en-suite with shower, heating and enough storage for our needs. All Majestic crews stay together for the season and each has a special name. Our crew is called the Puffin Crew. There were four crew including Skipper, First Mate, Purser and Chef.

Main Saloon table set up for lunch Image: John Dunphy

Soon we were heading South down the Sound of Kerrera to the first night’s anchorage in the beautifully named inlet called Pool of the Otter on Seil Island. Passengers assembled in the main saloon for appetisers, drinks and the first of our sumptuous three course dinners, whilst getting to know our fellow passengers and crew. This cruise had nine passengers -couples from the US, England and Australia, plus a Dutch schoolteacher travelling on her own.

Amazingly, The Majestic Line keeps two cabins for single guests on every cruise, with no surcharge!
Wine with dinner and three substantial meals a day are included in the tariff. All meals are taken in the main saloon, which also has a small library, charts and maps of the area and a big TV with our navigation chart displayed. Chef puts out a menu board every day and manages to come up with some lovely treats between meals (not that we needed to eat more!)

Day 2

The second day saw us sailing across the rugged Southern coastline of Mull enjoying lunch on the way to our next stop on the island of Iona. We entered the Sound of Iona in glorious sunshine, deep blue seas and clear blue sky, before anchoring and going ashore.

Iona Abbey with Glen Massan anchored in the Sound of Iona and Mull in the background Image: John Dunphy

Everyone was looking forward to seeing the island with its famous and magnificently restored Abbey and the ruined Nunnery, and we walked through the lovely village, enjoying seeing its excellent craft/gift shop, whitewashed houses and newborn lambs in the fields. The abbey is magnificent and is still in use today for services, accommodation and meetings. It was hard to imagine what Iona would have been like when St Columba arrived here from Ireland in the 6th century to found his original abbey.
Back on board we sailed around the Ross of Mull to the second night’s anchorage off the little village of Bunessan.

Day 3

Day three dawned clear and fine, which pleased everyone, for we were scheduled to land on Staffa to visit Fingal’s Cave and this anchorage is very weather dependent. The cave was magnificent and we had 360 degree views of the surrounding islands from the cliff tops on Staffa. Glen Massan then sailed around the uninhabited Treshnish Islands searching for wildlife, particularly puffins, as these islands are their nesting grounds.
We saw lots of the little sea birds before heading for another wildlife and lunch stop between the islands of Gometra and Ulva. Passengers are free to visit the bridge and use the forward top decks for better viewing, and to see how the boat navigates. That night saw the boat tucked in to the North of Ulva near the small settlement on the island. We learnt that first governor of NSW, Lachlan Macquarie was born on Ulva and his family were the Lairds of the Island. First Mate ensured that all passengers got another good night sleep by turning off the generator, once everyone had retired for the night. It was not turned again until 7.30am the following morning, which acted as an unofficial alarm clock for the morning cup of tea and breakfast.

Day 4

Day four saw us cruising around the North of Mull with a lunch stop on the way to the prettiest of our anchorages in the appropriately named Loch Drumbuie. After dinner we enjoyed drinks on deck watching a magnificent sunset and enjoying the long northern twilight. The small bar on Glen Massan has an excellent selection of local malt whisky and we did enjoy sampling a number of them.

Sunset over Loch Drumbuie, Isle of Oronsay Image: John Dunphy

The Glen Massan headed for the “big smoke” of Tobermory the lovely capital of Mull, on day five. We had many hours on shore, walking along the waterside tracks, seeing the local shops and cafes, and enjoying a drink in the famous Mishnish Hotel, know to locals as “the Mish”. The skipper met us in the Mish at 5.30pm and, after a few drinks, we headed back to the boat for the night on the Tobermory harbour anchorage.

Tobermory waterfront with famous Mishnish Hotel in the centre  

Image: John Dunphy

Day 5

On our final full day, we sailed down the Sound of Mull with our usual luncheon stop before the boat dropped those passengers who wanted some exercise, at the village of Craignure. From there we walked the three miles or so to Duart Castle, home of Clan Maclean. The castle is open to the public during the summer months and we were fortunate to be some of the first visitors for the year. Glen Massan had sailed around to the bay behind the castle to pick up the walkers, and we then sailed the short distance to our last night anchorage in the sheltered Loch Spelve, that has substantial mussel faming activity – so our chef had ordered fresh mussels for dinner on our last night together!

Day 6

After breakfast on our last day, we retraced our steps up the Sound of Kerrera and back to Oban, where we bade a sad farewell to the lovely crew of Glen Massan and our fellow passengers.

Sea Kayakers off Easdale Island Image: John Dunphy


This review was first published in "travelmonitor.com.au" 

Wildlife in abundance on our first 'Around Mull: Wildlife Explorer' Cruise

Skipper Martin McWhirr was supported by Chef Michael, Engineer David and Bosun Hazel.

Our new 6-night cruise “Around Mull: Wildlife Explorer” was everything we had hoped for with most species putting in an appearance.  Departing Oban in spectacular sunny weather we cruised up Loch Linnhe to our first anchorage on Loch a choire on the Morvern Coast.  The scenery was stunning with the loch fringed by high mountains and the snow topped cap of Ben Nevis glinting in the distance  Otters have been spotted here on previous cruises but weren’t coming out to play this time.  We did however get some close sightings of red deer including a large stag and the first of many sightings of graylag geese.  Our first meal on board courtesy of Chef Michael was a stunning main course of halibut, scallop and lobster which set the standard for the rest of the week.

The following day the weather was again idyllic as we headed across the Sound of Mull to a shore visit at Duart Castle on Mull.  There was not a lot of wildlife out as we cruised – just a few black guillemots and shags on the water.  For those of us opting to stay out in the sunshine, the scrub at the bottom of Duart Castle provided shelter for woodland birds, including chaffinch and linnets.  Close views of wheatear and rock pipit on the shore were a bonus as we sat enjoying the sunshine, the birdsong, the views and the sound of the waves on the shingle and waiting our transfer back to the Glen Massan and onward to Tobermory.  There was barely a ripple on the Sound of Mull and we reached Tobermory Bay to be dropped off onshore in good time for a walk in Aros Park before dinner.  While out on the tender on returning to the boat, we had a close look at the shags on their nests beside the lovely waterfall in Tobermory Bay .

On the Monday we were picked up by David Woodhouse for our land tour of the Isle of Mull which proved to be a great day.  Not only did we see lots of wildlife, we toured spectacular landscapes in the National Scenic Area of the Island.  The main areas for spotting wildlife were Loch na Keal, Loch Scridain and Loch Beg, then on to Loch Spelve with its wonderful native oak woodland.  On the day we had several sightings of white-tailed eagles, plus fabulous views of golden eagle .  Another highlight included several sightings of Great Northern Diver, now displaying summer plumage.  These birds have been wintering on Mull and will be heading off to their breeding grounds in Greenland, Canada etc in May.  We were able to watch an otter relaxing on Scarisdale Rocks in Loch na Keal, getting great close up views through the telescope.  See the bottom of the blog for a full list of birds seen on our land tour, plus common seal and a dead polecat!  Monday ended on a spectacular note with a fabulous sunset in Tobermory Bay and a visit from a small pod of porpoises which played around for half an hour in the Bay.

Tuesday saw a change in the weather, and with some windy conditions forecast we left the shelter of the Sound of Mull, heading around the top of the Island.  We had great views of the Treshnish Isles as we cruised past to our sheltered anchorage in Bunessan, ready for our trip ashore to explore Iona the following day and then on to Ulva and Gometra.  On the west coast of Mull, the puffins were out in force to the delight of guests and also spotted were Great Skuas, Gannets, Fulmars and Kittiwakes in abundance. 

Species spotted on the land trip were:

Common seal ; Eurasian Otter; Porpoise; Red Deer

Buzzard; Chaffinch; Common Gull; Common Sandpiper; Cormorant; Dipper; Eider; Great Black Backed Gull; Greylag Geese; Golden Eagle; Great Northern Diver; Heron; Hooded Crow; Lesser Black Backed Gull; Mallard; Meadow Pipit; Mistle Thrush; Oystercatcher; Pied Wagtail; Pheasant; Raven; Rock Pipit; Shag; Shelduck; Skylark; Stonechat; Swallow; Swans (nesting); Twite; White-tailed Eagle; Wheatear;

A wonderful voyage from South to North Argyll around the Mull of Kintyre April 5th 2014

Our tenth anniversary season got off to a wonderful start with both vessels on a one-way cruise from Holy Loch, near Dunoon, around the Mull of Kintyre to Oban.  The weather was kind with little wind, and periods of sunshine while the wildlife put in an appearance too.

Skipper Iain on the Glen Tarsan was ably assisted by Chef Stephen, Engineer Gavin and Bosun “young “ Stephen

Skipper Sandy on the Glen Massan was supported by Chef Andie, Engineer Ray and Bosun Claire

For much of the journey the boats travelled together from the Clyde in south Argyll to The Inner Hebrides and Oban in the north of Argyll.

The first stopover for both vessels was the charismatic anchorage at Carrick Castle in Loch Long where both chefs competed for the best first dinner on board ever!  Steve and Andie each provided their legendary seafood buffet with mussels, languostines and crab.  There was plenty of birdlife about with large rafts of eider and guillemot, and close sightings of porpoises and seals.

Sunday got off to a rainy start as the boats set off for Bute but, as it often does on the west coast, the weather cleared to provide a lovely sunny sail from Rothesay to East Kyle in the stunning Kyles of Bute.  Previously guests enjoyed a visit to the amazing Mount Stuart.  There were more birds to be seen, in particular rafts of eider, with razorbills, cormorants, guillemots and gulls also spotted.

Monday began very socially as the guests of Glen Massan joined the guests of Glen Tarsan for breakfast.  Both Skippers were very focused on the weather as it was the day to “round the Mull” which can on occasion be fairly exposed.  However, the weather Gods smiled on our vessels which enjoyed smooth seas and some sunshine as they navigated the Mull of Kintyre and onwards to Jura.  With great views of the Isle of Gigha on the East and Islay on the west, our vessels held for Jura, anchoring off Craighouse.  Much of the marine wildlife was still out and about with common dolphin, porpoise and common seal all spotted as well as fulmars, kittiwakes and black guillemots.

Tuesday dawned and guests from both boats went ashore for a guided tour of Jura distillery followed by both vessels then cruising the length of Loch Sween, past the ruins of twelfth century Loch Sween Castle to the charming village of Tayvallich.  The Osprey nest on Loch Sween could be clearly seen as the vessels cruised past and already the pair of Ospreys were in residence. Guillemot and Canada geese were also spotted. Stopping over in Loch Sween, some guests took the walk to Carsaig beach on the west side of the peninsula and were rewarded with excellent views of Jura and some seals.

On Wednesday both boats cruised to picturesque Crinan for a lunchtime anchorage with buzzard, oystercatcher and heron spotted on the way.  The weather had become a bit dull, but spirits were raised with a birthday cake for a  guests on the Glen Tarsan at afternoon tea  and the sight of a pair of rare northern divers at the mouth of Crinan Bay and some porpoise.  The vessels then continued on their voyage north, leaving Jura behind, passing into a delightful small island landscape with the Craignish Peninsula on the mainland on the right and the “Slate Isles”  and Isle of Scarba on the left.  The journey was aided by the following sea of the “tidal gate” Dorus Mhor and the sun appearing from time to time finally anchoring in Fearnach Bay in Loch Melfort for the night. Buzzard, oystercatcher and heron were

On  Thursday morning, all guests on the Glen Tarsan went ashore for a sunny walk on the shores of Loch Melfort followed by a wonderful short cruise to the Sound of Seil for lunch.  Guests went ashore to walk over the humpbacked Clachan Bridge joining tiny Seil Island with the Scottish mainland.  The late afternoon sun provided a perfect cruise in Hebridean light as the Glen Tarsan headed for Duart Castle on Mull and then to the next inlet on the Mull Coast, Loch Spelve for overnight.  The Glen Massan guests opted for a trip ashore at Easdale, joining the Glen Tarsan in Loch Spelve.  The combined wildlife count for the day was wild goat, red deer, a white tailed eagle, seals and great northern divers.  Loch Spelve is famed for its otters but unfortunately none were feeling sociable.

On the Friday morning, it was time to head back over the Firth of Lorne from Mull to Oban and disembarkation with memories of wonderful voyage from South to North Argyll around the Mull of Kintyre.